What is the Curly Girl Method?
The Curly Girl is a method of washing, styling and drying your hair to promote your natural curl. The Curly Girl Method was created by Lorraine Massey, who wrote the original Curly Girl handbook , which is a guide to how to manage Curly hair. Having been a curly girl advocate for now 10 years, here are my honest tips and tricks. Trying to style curly hair and resist the urge to straighten it can be a challenge. So what is the Curly Girl Method? Let’s find out how to do it in 4 Easy Steps.
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Many people have embraced the method, but it can be quite complicated to understand. Over the years, many people have also changed the rules by adding in their own routines and taking other rules out. The Key is to the Curly Girl method is to be able to understand and manage your curls hair easily yourself.
What Is The Curly Girl Method and how do I do it? Find out how to begin in 4 easy steps!
The Curly girl is an approach to understanding your curly hair, and it is a brilliant place to start understanding how your curls work.
The curly girl method is made up of a variety of steps to help you achieve perfect curls. These steps can be broken down in to 4 easy steps;
Step 1: Cleanse your hair
Avoid ingredients in your products such as sulphates, Silicones and parabens that can dry out your hair. Instead choose a natural shampoos or even better still wash with conditioner by gently massaging your scalp with your fingers to lift off product, sweat, and oils
| Ingredient to Avoid | Why It’s Harmful | CGM-Approved Alternative |
| Sulphates (SLS, SLES) | Strips natural oils and dries curls | Co-washing or sulphate-free cleansers |
| Silicones (Dimethicone) | Creates buildup that blocks moisture | Water-soluble conditioning agents |
| Parabens | May disrupt scalp health | Natural preservatives (phenoxyethanol) |
| Drying Alcohols | Evaporates moisture causing brittleness | Fatty alcohols (cetyl, stearyl) |
Step 2: Condition your curls
Next use a curly girl approved conditioner to smooth over your hair. You can choose to use a deep conditioner also so your hair thoroughly moisturised.
Step 3: Style your curls
Choose styling creams, mousse or gel that do not contain harmful ingredients to style your hair. A lot of the curly girl method is about learning to style you hair to achieve less frizz and more volume.
The original method advises avoiding using brushes or combs that pull your hair and fluffy towels, which may cause frizz. However, many people have adapted their curly girl routines to include a wet brush to help style and clump hair together to produce chunkier spirals and curls.
| Hair Type | Best Product Texture | Application Method |
| Fine Wavy Hair | Lightweight mousse or foam | Scrunch upward from ends |
| Medium Curly Hair | Curl cream + light gel | Prayer hands then scrunch |
| Thick Coily Hair | Heavy cream + strong-hold gel | Section and rake through |
| Fine Curly Hair | Gel only (skip cream) | Glaze over surface, then scrunch |
Step 4: Dry your Curls
Dry your hair using a diffuser or try to let your hair air dry. If you use a diffuser, use a low heat and power so you do not blow your curls or cause them to frizz.
| Diffusing Stage | Heat Setting | Speed Setting |
| Initial Drying (First 5-7 min) | Medium heat | Low speed |
| Middle Phase (70% dry) | Low heat | Low speed |
| Final Setting (Last 3 min) | Cool shot | Medium speed |
| Root Volume Boost (Optional) | Medium heat | High speed for 30 seconds |
The best thing about the Curly Girl Method is that it can be customised to suit all hair types.
Curly: Curly hair may benefit from lighter conditioners, styling with a wet brush and drying hair upside down with a diffuser to create volume.
Wavy: Wavy hair may not need as much conditioning, as it is more likely to be oilier than curly hair. Wavy hair may also need extra help when styling with lighter products and using a diffuser during drying to create more waves.
Coily: Coily hair may benefit more from deep conditioning and using less heat when styling.
How long does it take for Curly Girl Method to work?
The curly girl method can be achieved in a matter of weeks. It may take a little while for your hair to adapt to its new routine of washing especially if you are Co washing. But soon you will be able to get the hang of the styling and achieve better curls.
| Time Period | What’s Happening | What You’ll Notice |
| Week 1-2 | Transition/clarifying phase | Hair may look greasy or limp |
| Week 3-4 | Moisture balance begins | Curl definition starts appearing |
| Week 6-8 | Natural curl pattern emerging | Consistent curl clumps forming |
| Month 3+ | Full hair transformation | Maximum curl potential achieved |
Is the Curly Girl Method healthy for your hair?
Yes the curly girl method is better for your hair and much healthier. By using less harmful ingredients and looking after your natural curls, your hair will thank you for it. That is, after all, why Lorraine Massey devised the method to help people maintain healthy locks.
What is the Curly Girl Method of cutting hair?
Lorraine Massey originally devised the Deva Cut, which is a method of cutting curly hair. The main idea is to cut hair dry, allowing the hair to be in its most natural position. This stops wet curls shrinking up too short. This method of cutting curly hair is called a curly cut
Does the Curly Girl Method make your hair curlier over time?
Yes! The method can make your hair curlier over time as you hair will become more moisturised and more used to being in its natural state. It does not, however, change your natural curl pattern that you are born with, but it definitely does improve it.
Take a look at these before and after curly hair photos to see how your hair can improve by trying out the curly girl method.
Is the Curly Girl Method good for wavy hair?
Yes the curly girl is great for wavy hair but you may need to adapt your routine. It may be oilier and need less conditioner and may need a helping hand when styling. You can finger coli your hair whilst styling to help encourage curls and dry hair with the help of a diffuser on your hairdryer to enhance your natural waves.
| Hair Pattern | Key Modification | Styling Priority |
| Wavy (2A-2C) | Use less conditioner, clarify more often | Enhance wave formation with techniques |
| Curly (3A-3C) | Balance moisture and volume | Clumping and frizz control |
| Coily (4A-4C) | Maximize moisture with deep conditioning | Moisture retention and definition |
| Mixed Texture | Zone-specific product application | Customise by section needs |
The Science Behind Why Your Hair Gets Curlier Over Time (It’s Not Magic)
When people start the Curly Girl Method, they often report their hair becoming “more curly” after several months. This isn’t changing your genetic curl pattern, t’s revealing what was always there beneath damage and dehydration.
What’s Actually Happening to Your Hair Structure:
Cortex Rehydration
Your hair shaft contains a cortex layer that stores moisture. Sulphate shampoos strip this moisture, causing the cortex to contract unevenly. When you eliminate harsh ingredients, the cortex rehydrates uniformly, allowing your natural curl shape to express itself fully for the first time.
Cuticle Smoothing
Damaged cuticles create rough surfaces that catch on each other, pulling curls straighter under their own weight. As gentle, silicone-free products allow cuticles to lie flat, hair becomes lighter and springs back into tighter curl formations.
Protein-Moisture Balance Restoration
Most conventional products create either protein or moisture imbalances. After 6-8 weeks on the method, your hair reaches equilibrium, where it has enough strength to hold curl shape and enough moisture to maintain elasticity, the perfect formula for maximum curl definition.
The Timeline:
Weeks 1-3: Transition period (hair may look worse)
Weeks 4-8: Curl pattern begins emerging
Months 3-6: Full curl potential revealed
Months 6-12: Curl consistency stabilizes
This is why “before and after” photos taken months apart show such dramatic differences; you’re seeing your hair’s true curl potential emerge from years of suppression.
Take a look at my curly Girl section for more information on maintaining a curly girl routine.
FAQ about the Curly Girl Method
Can I use heat tools occasionally while following the Curly Girl Method?
While the strict CGM discourages heat styling, modified approaches allow occasional heat use with proper heat protectant. If you use heat tools monthly or less, apply a silicone-free heat protectant and use the lowest effective temperature. Follow heat styling with a clarifying wash and deep conditioning treatment to minimize damage and return to your regular CGM routine.
Why does my hair look greasy when I co-wash instead of using shampoo?
Co-washing requires an adjustment period of two to four weeks as your scalp regulates oil production after years of being stripped by sulphates. Your scalp initially overproduces oil to compensate. If greasiness persists beyond one month, you may need to clarify weekly, use a lighter conditioner for co-washing, or try a low-poo (sulphate-free shampoo) instead of full co-washing.
How do I refresh my curls on non-wash days?
Spray your hair with plain water or a water-and-conditioner mixture until damp but not soaking. Apply a small amount of leave-in conditioner or curl refresher spray, then scrunch upward to reactivate your gel cast. For more volume, flip your head upside down while scrunching. Avoid touching your hair until it dries to prevent frizz.
What is “plopping” and do I need to do it?
Plopping is a drying technique where you wrap wet, product-coated hair in a cotton t-shirt or microfiber towel for 10-45 minutes to encourage curl formation and reduce frizz. It’s optional but particularly beneficial for wavy and loose curly hair patterns that need help forming defined clumps. Coily hair typically doesn’t require plopping as the curls are already tightly formed.
Can I brush my curls when they’re dry?
Dry brushing separates curl clumps and creates significant frizz, which contradicts CGM goals. Only detangle and brush during the conditioning step when hair is saturated and slippery with conditioner. If you must address tangles between washes, lightly dampen the tangled section with water and conditioner, gently finger-detangle, then re-scrunch to reform the curl.
